Eating South Africa
From the communal fire of the braai to the fragrant spice of Cape Malay bobotie to a hollow-loaf bunny chow in Durban — South Africa's food is as diverse, layered, and extraordinary as the country itself.
South Africa surprised me with its food more than almost anything else about the country. I expected the braai — that was always going to be good. What I didn't expect was the depth of Cape Malay cooking in Bo-Kaap, the legitimately world-class wine sitting two hours from Cape Town, or the way a bunny chow in Durban would become one of the most memorable meals I'd had anywhere. The food here tells the full story of the country — its indigenous roots, its colonial layers, its immigrant communities, and its painful and triumphant history, all on one plate.
— Scott
The Braai — South Africa's National Religion
4 entriesWhat Makes a Braai Different
A braai is not a barbecue. The word is Afrikaans for "grill" but calling it a barbecue to a South African will earn you a patient correction. The braai is a cultural institution — a reason to gather, a ritual of fire-making, a multi-hour social event that happens to produce food. The fire is built from wood (never charcoal briquettes — that's also not a braai), tended carefully, and reduced to coals before anything goes on the grid. The experience is as important as the result.
What Gets Braai'd
Boerewors (farmer's sausage — always spiral, always beef/pork blend with coriander spice) is the non-negotiable. Lamb chops, sosaties (spiced lamb skewers), chicken pieces marinated in peri-peri, and pork ribs all appear depending on the host. Mielies (maize cobs) go straight onto the coals, husks and all. Braaibroodjies — toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches grilled on the grid — are essential. The host who runs out of boerewors has failed.
National Braai Day
Heritage Day — September 24th, a public holiday — was unofficially rebranded National Braai Day in 2005. Archbishop Desmond Tutu became its patron, calling the braai "the one thing that unites all South Africans." Everywhere, from Cape Town beachfront to Soweto backyards to Kruger campsites, the fires are lit. If you're in South Africa on September 24th, you will smell braai smoke in every direction. Ask someone what they're putting on the fire — they'll invite you before you finish the question.
Experiencing a Braai as a Visitor
The best way to experience a proper braai is to be invited to one — and South Africans invite readily. The next best option: Mzoli's in Gugulethu, Cape Town — a township butcher-turned-institution where you buy raw meat at the counter (R80–150/$4.50–8 per portion), have it braai'd in the yard, eat at communal tables, and dance to kwaito and house music. It's loud, joyful, and one of the most genuine food experiences on the continent. Go on a Sunday. Book transport — Gugulethu is not walking distance from tourist Cape Town.
Biltong, Droëwors & South African Snacks
4 entriesBiltong — Jerky Elevated
Biltong is South Africa's answer to beef jerky, and it's vastly superior to the American original. The meat (beef, game, or ostrich) is cured in a blend of vinegar, salt, sugar, and spices — predominantly coriander — then air-dried over several days. The result is dense, intensely flavored, and slightly moist in the center when made properly. You can find it wet-cured (softer, redder) or well-dried (harder, darker). Game biltong — springbok, kudu, gemsbok — has a distinctive gamey richness. Buy it from a proper biltong shop, not a supermarket packet.
Droëwors
Droëwors (dry sausage) is boerewors that has been air-dried to a firm, shelf-stable stick. The coriander and spice profile is the same as braai boerewors, concentrated by the drying process. It's the perfect road-trip snack, the default offering at any gathering, and completely addictive. A 200g packet from a decent biltong shop costs R60–90 ($3.30–5). It pairs with Castle Lager in a way that requires no explanation.
Boerewors — The Sausage
South African law mandates that a sausage called boerewors must contain at least 90% meat (beef, pork, lamb, or any combination), and it must be in coil form. The spice blend — coriander, cloves, nutmeg, allspice — is distinctive and recognizable. A supermarket boerewors is fine; a premium butcher's version is spectacular. Where to buy the best: Woolworths Food (high-end supermarket, not the clothing chain) consistently produces excellent boerewors. Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants in Cape Town does an extraordinary premium version. Expect R80–150 ($4.50–8) per 500g.
Biltong Shops — What to Know
Every South African town has at least one biltong shop. The best ones cure their own in-house. Cape Town: Bulls & Bears Biltong in the city center and The Biltong Club in Bree Street (the craft biltong era has arrived). Johannesburg: Woolworths Food anywhere in the city — consistent quality. What to buy: Try a variety — beef, game, sliced thin vs. chunky. Expect R100–200 ($5.50–11) per 100g for premium product. It travels well in hand luggage (vacuum packed) — it's the ideal South Africa souvenir.
Cape Malay Cuisine — Bo-Kaap & Spice
4 entriesThe History Behind the Food
Cape Malay cuisine traces its origins to enslaved and indentured people brought to the Cape Colony from Malaysia, Indonesia, Madagascar, and other parts of Africa and Asia during the Dutch colonial period (1652–1806). They brought turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and an entire spice vocabulary that fused with local ingredients. The result is unlike anything else in Africa — fragrant, slightly sweet, gently spiced food that reflects centuries of adaptation and survival. The Bo-Kaap neighborhood in Cape Town's city bowl is its epicenter.
Bobotie — The Dish That Defines Cape Malay
Bobotie is South Africa's unofficial national dish — spiced minced meat (usually beef or lamb) baked with an egg custard topping and bay leaf, served with yellow rice, raisins, and chutney. The flavor profile is gently sweet and aromatic — turmeric, apricot jam, curry powder, and bread soaked in milk give it a complexity that's unlike anything in European or Asian cooking. Best bobotie in Cape Town: Biesmiellah Restaurant in Bo-Kaap (Wale Street) — a landmark since 1969. R150–200 ($8–11) for the full meal.
Bo-Kaap — The Neighborhood
The Bo-Kaap ("Upper Cape" in Afrikaans) is the colorful hillside neighborhood above the Cape Town city center where the Cape Malay community has lived for generations. The brightly painted houses (pink, yellow, green, cobalt blue) make it one of South Africa's most photographed streets. The Bo-Kaap Museum (R60/$3.30 entry) tells the neighborhood's history. More importantly: eat here. Biesmiellah (Wale Street), Bismillah Restaurant, and The Bo-Kaap Kombuis all serve home-style Cape Malay cooking at accessible prices.
Denningvleis, Koesisters & Cape Malay Sweets
Denningvleis is slow-braised lamb with tamarind, cloves, and allspice — rich and deeply savory. Cape Malay koesisters (not to be confused with the Afrikaner version) are fried dough doughnuts soaked in sugar syrup and rolled in desiccated coconut — they're sold from home kitchens and small shops in Bo-Kaap on weekend mornings. Get there by 9am. Samoosas (also spelled samosas here) — fried pastry filled with spiced potato or mince — are everywhere and excellent. R5–10 each from street vendors.
Durban Food — Bunny Chow & Indian Influence
4 entriesBunny Chow — Durban's Gift to the World
A bunny chow is a half or quarter loaf of white bread, hollowed out, filled with curry, and served with the bread lid balanced on top. It was invented by the Indian community in Durban's Grey Street area during apartheid, when Black and Indian South Africans couldn't be served in restaurants — the bread bowl made a portable, no-utensil-needed meal. Today it's the city's defining dish, eaten by everyone. The curry filling: beans, chicken, mutton, or prawn. Where to eat: Cane Cutters in Berea is excellent. Sunrise Chip n Ranch in Overport is the original standard.
Durban Curry — Hotter Than You Think
Durban curry is distinct from Indian curry — it's fiery, oil-rich, and uses a masala blend that has evolved over 150 years of South African Indian cooking. The heat level catches visitors off guard. When you order at a local restaurant and they ask "how hot?" — choose one level below what you think you can handle, then reassess. The Grey Street area (Victoria Street Market) has dozens of Indian curry houses at street-food prices. Mutton bunny: R60–90 ($3.30–5). Sit-down curry house with biryani: R150–250 ($8–14).
The Indian Community Food Culture
Durban has the largest Indian diaspora outside India — around 1.3 million people of Indian descent live in KwaZulu-Natal. The food culture runs deep: biryani (rice layered with spiced meat or vegetables), roti with curry, dhania (coriander) chutneys, and mithai (Indian sweets) sold at Diwali time. Victoria Street Market is chaotic, fragrant, and full of spice vendors, sari shops, and snack stalls. Arrive hungry and explore before you buy.
Shisa Nyama — Township Braai Culture
Shisa nyama means "burn the meat" in Zulu — it's a township tradition of buying raw meat from a butcher and having it grilled on the spot for immediate consumption. What started as a township institution has become a Durban phenomenon, especially on weekends. Eyadini Lounge in Umlazi township is the most famous — massive outdoor space, live music, thousands of people, and serious quantities of grilled meat and beer. It's an experience as much as a meal. Uber or organize transport — this is not a solo wandering situation.
Snoek, Crayfish & Cape Seafood
4 entriesSnoek — The Cape's Fish
Snoek (pronounced "snook") is a long, silver, oily fish found in the cold Atlantic waters off the Cape. It's often smoked, grilled over coals with apricot jam (an Afrikaner classic), or made into smoorsnoek — a Cape Malay smoked fish cooked with potatoes, onions, and spices. It's eaten everywhere on the Cape Peninsula and particularly beloved in fishing communities like Kalk Bay and Hout Bay. Fresh snoek season runs April through August. Kalk Bay Harbour fish market sells it straight off the boats — R60–120 ($3.30–6.60) for a whole fish.
West Coast Rock Lobster
South Africa calls its spiny lobster "crayfish" (or kreef in Afrikaans) — it has no claws like North Atlantic lobster, but the tail meat is sweet and excellent. West Coast crayfish (Jasus lalandii) is harvested from the cold Benguela Current waters off the Cape West Coast. Paternoster, a whitewashed fishing village 2 hours north of Cape Town, has the best crayfish restaurants on the planet relative to price — Wolfgat (fine dining, R1,800/$100 tasting menu), Die Strandloper (outdoor seafood feast, R650/$36 all-inclusive with wine). In season (November–April): unforgettable.
Knysna Oysters
Knysna Lagoon in the Garden Route produces some of the finest oysters in the southern hemisphere. The sheltered lagoon, fed by both fresh and seawater, creates ideal growing conditions. The Knysna Oyster Festival (July) is built around them. Year-round, you can eat them fresh at 34 South Restaurant or from the Knysna Quays market vendors — R180–250 ($10–14) for a dozen, or R15–20 ($0.85–1.10) each. Order them simply — a squeeze of lemon, nothing else.
Cape Malay Fish Dishes
Pickled fish is a Cape Easter tradition — fried fish (usually snoek or yellowtail) layered in a sweet-sour onion curry sauce, refrigerated for several days, and served cold. It tastes exactly as strange as it sounds, and exactly as good. It's the dish Cape Malay grandmothers make at Easter and everyone else waits for all year. Fish braai on the West Coast: whole harders (mullet) grilled directly on coals by the side of the road, wrapped in bread. Kalk Bay harbor in Cape Town does this at its best.
Malva Pudding, Koeksisters & South African Sweets
4 entriesMalva Pudding
The most loved South African dessert — a hot, spongy baked pudding made with apricot jam and soaked in a warm cream sauce while it's still in the oven. The result is sticky, sweet, and intensely comforting. Every South African has a family recipe. It appears on virtually every traditional restaurant menu and is what gets ordered most at the end of a braai. Best with a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting into the warm pudding. R60–95 ($3.30–5.20) at most restaurants.
Koeksisters — Afrikaner Version
Not to be confused with the Cape Malay version — the Afrikaner koeksister is a plaited doughnut deep-fried and immediately dunked in ice-cold sugar syrup. The contrast of hot oil and cold syrup creates a crunchy shell with a syrup-saturated interior. They're sweet, dense, and impossibly moreish. Sold at church fundraisers, farm stalls, and roadside vendors throughout the Western Cape. R8–15 ($0.45–0.80) each. They don't travel well — eat them fresh.
Melktert — Milk Tart
A pastry case filled with a lightly sweet, cinnamon-dusted milk custard — somewhere between a French tian and a Portuguese pasteis de nata, but softer and less eggy. It's a staple of Afrikaner cooking, sold at every farm stall and many supermarkets. The best ones come from farm stalls along the wine routes where grandmothers still make them by hand. R15–35 ($0.85–2) per slice at farm stalls. Aandkos in Franschhoek and Babylonstoren Farm Shop both do exceptional versions.
Rooibos Tea — South Africa's Unique Brew
Rooibos (red bush) grows exclusively in the Cederberg mountains of the Western Cape — it cannot be cultivated anywhere else on earth. The tea is caffeine-free, naturally sweet, and earthy. South Africans drink it with milk and sugar (like British tea) or black. It's high in antioxidants and increasingly marketed internationally, but nothing beats drinking it in the Cederberg where it grows. Rooibos tea estates around Clanwilliam offer tastings and tours. Buy a box of loose-leaf at any Woolworths Food — R40–80 ($2.20–4.40) — far better than the export brands.
Wine Regions — Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Constantia
5 entriesStellenbosch — The Academic Heart of SA Wine
The oldest wine town in South Africa (1679) and the center of winemaking education at Stellenbosch University. The region produces world-class Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage (SA's signature grape), Chenin Blanc, and Shiraz across 200+ farms. The oak-lined streets of the town center rival any European wine village. Must-visit estates: Kanonkop (benchmark Pinotage and Paul Sauer blend), Rust en Vrede (exceptional single estate reds), Waterford (chocolate and wine pairing). Tasting fees: R50–200 ($2.75–11). Day trip from Cape Town: 45 minutes.
Franschhoek — South Africa's Culinary Capital
The "French Corner" was settled by Huguenot refugees in 1688 — their influence shows in the estate names (Boschendal, La Motte, Haute Cabrière) and the concentration of extraordinary restaurants. Franschhoek is 75km from Cape Town and feels entirely removed from it — a mountain valley of wine farms, culinary estates, and farm-to-table dining that has no equivalent on the continent. The Franschhoek Wine Tram (R280/$15 all-day pass) connects the farms — hop on/off as you please. No need to drive.
Constantia — The Original Wine Valley
Vines have grown in Constantia since 1685 — the oldest wine region in the southern hemisphere. Just 20 minutes from the Cape Town city center, it's the easiest wine tasting day trip. Groot Constantia (est. 1685, government museum and working winery) is a historical experience as much as a wine one. Beau Constantia has the finest views — tasting deck overlooking the mountains and False Bay. Klein Constantia's Vin de Constance (dessert wine) was Napoleon's favorite in exile on St. Helena. Tasting fees: R60–200 ($3.30–11).
Hemel-en-Aarde — For Pinot Noir Lovers
The "Heaven and Earth" valley near Hermanus produces South Africa's finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — the cold maritime climate from Walker Bay is ideal for these Burgundian varieties. Hamilton Russell Vineyards has been making benchmark SA Pinot Noir since 1981. Bouchard Finlayson makes exceptional Chardonnay. Creation Wines runs outstanding food-and-wine pairing experiences. Combine with whale watching in Hermanus (June–November) for the perfect Cape day. 1.5 hours from Cape Town.
Wine Prices & Where to Buy
South African wine is exceptional value. A really good bottle from the producer (cellar-door price): R150–600 ($8–33). Restaurant markup is 2–3x. Wine is sold in supermarkets everywhere — Woolworths Food and Checkers both have strong selections with honest prices and excellent shelf notes. Duty-free allowance returning to the US: 1 liter of alcohol. Wine shops in the Winelands (especially Franschhoek) can arrange international shipping for serious purchases.
Best Restaurants — Cape Town, Jo'burg & Durban
6 entriesCape Town: The Test Kitchen
Chef Luke Dale-Roberts' flagship in the Old Biscuit Mill, Woodstock. The Dark Room and Light Room format delivers two distinct dining experiences — modern South African cuisine at its most creative. Tasting menu: R2,500 ($137) per person for 8+ courses. One of the most awarded restaurants on the continent. Book a month ahead for weekends. The location in a converted industrial building adds to the atmosphere.
More on Cape Town →Cape Town: La Colombe
Set on the Silvermist wine estate in Constantia with mountain views, La Colombe has been one of Africa's best restaurants for over a decade. Chef James Gaag's 9-course tasting menu (R2,200/$120) showcases South African ingredients with refined technique. The wine pairing is exceptional — Cape bottles chosen to amplify every course. Book 2–3 weeks ahead. The terrace seating at sunset makes it one of the most beautiful restaurant experiences in the country.
More on Cape Town →Cape Town: Biesmiellah
The Cape Malay institution in Bo-Kaap since 1969. No alcohol (halal restaurant in a Muslim neighborhood — respect that), but no need for it — the food is complete. Bobotie, denningvleis, biriyani, and samoosas in a simple dining room that has seen four generations of the same families eating here. Main dishes: R130–200 ($7–11). Cash preferred. Open for lunch and dinner, closed on Fridays for Jumu'ah prayer. If you eat one meal in Bo-Kaap, eat here.
More on Cape Town →Johannesburg: The Marabi Club
In the Maboneng Precinct — Jo'burg's creative arts and food district — The Marabi Club is named after the jazz genre that defined 1920s Sophiatown. Live jazz, craft cocktails, and South African-inspired food in a building that feels like a speakeasy. Main dishes R180–350 ($10–19). The Maboneng precinct itself is worth walking — galleries, studios, rooftop bars, and creative energy that feels like Jo'burg at its most optimistic.
Johannesburg: Urbanologi
A wood-fired kitchen in the Rosebank Arts District, Urbanologi works with South African craft producers and seasonal ingredients. The menu changes frequently — what arrives at the table depends on what was harvested. Main dishes R180–320 ($10–17.60). The cocktail program features South African spirits (Inverroche gin, Cape brandy) at their best. Wednesday to Saturday evenings — book ahead, it fills fast.
Durban: Cane Cutters
The best bunny chow in Durban — an assertion that will trigger debate, which is the point. Quarter loaf with mutton curry: R75 ($4). The mutton is slow-cooked until it falls apart, the curry is properly hot, and the bread absorbs every drop of sauce. Cash only, eat standing up or at basic plastic tables. Open for lunch only. Join the queue — it moves fast and the queue is part of the experience.
South African Food FAQ
5 entriesWhat should I eat first in South Africa?
Start with a braai if you're invited to one. If not, do biltong from a proper biltong shop on day one — it's the taste that defines the country for most visitors. Then find a Cape Malay restaurant in Bo-Kaap for bobotie, and try a bunny chow if you make it to Durban.
Is South African food spicy?
Cape Malay cuisine is warmly spiced but not hot — turmeric, coriander, cinnamon, and ginger dominate. Durban Indian food is genuinely spicy — bunny chow and Durban curry are not playing around. Afrikaner cooking (braai, malva pudding, potjiekos) is mild and hearty. Peri-peri (Portuguese-influenced chili sauce) appears everywhere and ranges from manageable to brutal.
How much does food cost in South Africa?
Street food and markets: R50–150 ($2.75–8). Casual restaurant: R150–300 ($8–16.50) per person with drinks. Mid-range: R300–700 ($16–38). Fine dining: R1,500–3,000 ($82–165) per person for a tasting menu with wine pairing. Supermarkets are reasonably priced. The Rand's exchange rate means visitors from the US, Europe, or Australia find it very affordable.
Can I drink the tap water in South Africa?
Cape Town tap water is among the purest in the world — safe and good. Johannesburg, Durban, and most urban areas have safe tap water. In rural areas and some townships the infrastructure can be inconsistent — bottled water is safest if you're uncertain. Game reserves: always ask the staff.
What is Pinotage?
Pinotage is South Africa's signature grape variety — a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, bred at Stellenbosch University in 1925. It produces a wine that's distinctly South African: full-bodied, with dark fruit, earthy notes, and sometimes a smoky quality. It's divisive — some love it, some don't — but you must try it in SA. Kanonkop Paul Sauer and Kanonkop Pinotage are the benchmarks.
Scott's Food Pro Tips
- Braai Invitation Rule: If a South African invites you to a braai, say yes immediately and ask what to bring. Bring more than wine — bring an effort. Offer to help with the fire. The social ritual is the point.
- Biltong Quality Check: Good biltong should be slightly moist in the center, deeply flavored, and not overly salty. Dry and chalky means it's old or poorly made. Buy from a dedicated biltong shop, not a convenience store packet.
- Wine Tasting Pace: Don't rush Franschhoek or Stellenbosch. Limit yourself to 4–5 estates per day. Take the Wine Tram — no driving, no stress. Have a proper sit-down lunch mid-tasting — food and wine together is the point.
- Bunny Chow Etiquette: Eat it with your hands. Use the bread lid to scoop. Don't ask for cutlery. The bread bowl absorbs the curry as you eat — the last bites of saturated bread are the best part.
- Bo-Kaap Timing: Visit Bo-Kaap for breakfast or lunch — the neighborhood restaurants are lunch-focused. Friday afternoons are quieter as many shops close for Jumu'ah. Saturday morning is the best time for Cape Malay koesisters from home-kitchen vendors.
- Supermarket Secret: Woolworths Food (the South African premium supermarket, no relation to the UK chain) has genuinely excellent ready-made Cape Malay dishes, superior biltong, and well-curated wines. When you're self-catering or want to try things cheaply first, it's the go-to.
- Rooibos to Take Home: Buy loose-leaf rooibos, not tea bags. Woolworths Food or a specialist tea shop in Cape Town. It genuinely tastes different — better — than anything packaged for export.
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